My Take on Tartan

My Take on Tartan

After exploring how different designers have used Tartan I have discovered that it is very much about one thing; identity. Tartan to me can be an indicator of a culture, a class, a team or a  family. The association of plaid with identity began with the Scottish clans, each with a tartan kilt which became the uniform of their family showing other people both with whom and where they belonged.

 The Burberry plaid pattern was popularised within sports. It became a sign of British cameraderie with the olympic equestrian teams wearing it as their uniform. It was also used within the military and as outerwear for outdoor sports and pursuits. The popularity of Burberry soared amongst royalty, Hollywood and the upper class, becoming a strong signifier of money. Although originally the Burberry pattern was tied up with the monied upper classes this was not always to be the case. Since the 90's to the 'naughties' Burberry check has become synonimous with 'chav culture', due to cheap copies of the pattern becoming hugely popular on clothing among a proportion of the lower class. The associations with loutish behaviour and poverty have been harmful to the fashion label.  

Vivienne Westwood used tartan from the beginning of her career after being inspired by Scottish clans. I wonder if it was intentional that she used a pattern with such roots in group indentification, because soon after her shop opened people who wore her clothes became known as 'punk rockers'. She had created this huge fashion movement involving the younger generation, a movement within which they could create their own individual indentity but still belong. 

Tartan to me is not always just a pretty woven pattern, it is a signifier of belonging somewhere or with something.